Thursday, 08 August 2019 00:00

Updo - How-to: The Breeze with Eric Fisher

"The Breeze" is an organic, romantic updo perfect for an evening event or wedding. Follow along step by step with Eric Fisher to recreate this look.  

PRODUCTS

  • Thermal protectant
  • Light Hold Hairspray

TOOLS

  • Large Tooth Comb
  • Tail Comb
  • Curling Iron with 1" barrel
  • Hair Elastics
  • Bobby Pins

STEPS

  1. Pre - curl the hair.  Use a 1" curling iron and spiral curl the hair towards the back of the head, away from the face.
  2. Lightly comb out the hair using a large tooth comb.
  3. Separate the hair from the crown to behind each ear and clip the front sections out of the way.
  4. Backcomb the hair at the crown; taking a larger section of hair, overdirect the hair to the front of the head and backcomb for a good, firm base.
  5. Repeat the backcombing with a few more sections, interlocking them as you go.
  6. Smooth the top of the hair and pin the backcombed hair under the crown.  Pull and shape this area as desired.
  7. Separate the back section of hair into 2 smaller sections.  Using an elastic and 2 bobby pins; create 2 small ponytails at the occipital.
  8. Take one of the front sections and divide it into 2 sections.  Elevate the sections towards the crown and twist the hair into a roll.
  9. Pin this hair into the backcombed section at the back of the crown.  Repeat on the other side.
  10. Loosen the rolls on the sides as desired for an organic, romantic look.
  11. Take one of the ponytails in the back and separate the curls with your fingers.  Twist and de-construct this hair, wrap and pin into the hair above.
  12. Repeat on the other side.
  13. Evaluate your look for balance and deconstruct as desired.  

 

Published in Updo
Tuesday, 20 August 2019 00:00

Twisted Pull-Through Braid

 

It's summer. It's hot. Check out this dry style technique from Melissa @hairicome to give a polished look to second (or third) day hair!

STEPS:

1.  Ponytail a section of hair from parietal to parietal and secure with a clear elastic just about the occipital.

2.  Gather the underlying hair in a ponytail and hold in your non-dominant hand.

3.  Split the ponytailed section in half with your index finger and, using your first and third fingers come up from underneath twisting that section of hair counter-clockwise and pull the remaining hair through the loop.  

4.  Tighten the elastic of the original ponytail.

5.  Take the section of hair on top of the original ponytail and secure an elastic 2-3" down.  Split that ponytail in the middle with your index finger and using your first and third fingers twist the section counter-clockwise and pull the first ponytail through the loop.

Dry Styling Pink Hair 1

6.  Repeat these steps until you reach the ends of the hair. Pancake the pieces as desired.

Click here Twisted Pull Through Braid by Melissa @hairicome to watch the video.

 

 

Published in Updo

Prosper U had the opportunity to sit down with William Hyde (@sharkfin_willy) of Shark Fin Shears and talk shear education.  We learned so much we want to share it with you in this 2 part series.  

We all use shears; we all buy shears but are we making the best, educated decisions?  

1.  What should you consider when purchasing shears?

Sometimes the shears you are issued when you start cosmetology school are quality shears that will last you a few years.  Do they cut well? Are they ergonomincally friendly? Are they sharp and do they hold an edge? If the answer is "no," it might be time to invest in new equipment.  So how do you know what to purchase?

The 3 things you should consider when purchasing new shears are HOW, WHAT and WHERE.  

HOW are the shears made?  Are they hand-forged or cast?  Hand-forged shears are made using heat and working the metal by hammering or pressing.  The forging process makes a much more durable, denser, longer lasting shear.  Shears that are cast are created by pouring metal into a mold.  It is a less expensize way to construct shears but the process changes the molecular structure of the metal and leaves little air pockets in the metal.  This can result in a more brittle finish so if the shear is dropped, it has the potential to shatter and be rendered unrepairable.  

Shear Education 3

 

2.  What is the difference between titanium colored shears and stainless steel shears?  Which shears cut better?

WHAT the shears are made of is another key thing to consider.  Steel comes from the following countries, Japan, Korea, China, Taiwan, Germany, India and Pakistan.  Japanese steel is considered to be the finest.  Steel from Korea, China and Taiwan is good but tends to be softer and won't retain an edge as long.  German steel is too hard to sharpen to a razor's edge.  Steel from India and Pakistan is the poorest quality and doesn't sharpen or hold an edge well. 

Shark Fin shears are made with either 440-A, 440-C, VG-10 or ATS-314 steel.  Hitachi ATS-314 is the finest steel, hardest steel.  It will hold an edge the longest without requiring frequent sharpening.  Shears crafted from stainless steel have a razor sharp convex edge.

Shear Education 1

Titanium color coating is a final process to bond color to the shear.  When titanium coating a shear, the edge of the blade is a semi-convex edge which is done so that the titanium doesn't come off.  Although most people wouldn't notice a difference; it is possible that some would feel a little 'crunch' when cutting. 

 

Know WHERE the shears are crafted.  Most shears are crafted in Japan, Korea or China.  It is agreed that Japanese craftmanship is the finest but some companies will finish their shear in Korea or China as a cost-saving measure to their consumer.  Shark Fin shears are handmade by craftsmen trained in Japan.  The shears are shipped individually and inspected using over 30 steps and procedures to exceed their customers' expectations.  

 

Look for the 2nd part in this series where we will learn about the patented Shark Fin fit, the advantages of a swivel shear, proper maintenance and the Shark Fin Certified Sharpening Service.  

Shear Education 2

Published in Interview

What are curtain bangs?

Curtain bangs are bangs that are parted down the middle, framing your face on each side. They are usually longer on the sides and shorter in the center with wispy ends, giving them a laidback, 70's vibe.  Curtain bangs look good on straight hair, curly hair or wavy hair.  In addition to texture consideration, curtain bangs work best on medium to thick hair.

How To:

Create a deep "V" section from recession to recession.  Comb the hair straight down then twist the section in the middle.  Cut this section from edge to edge.  Evaluate your length, its important not to cut curtain bangs too short.  Soften the edges using a point cutting technique.  

Styling curtain bangs requires a good blow dry.  First blow-dry and roll your fringe forward and under. Then, once dry, roll it around the brush backwards – away from your face – and let it set and cool down on the brush. Once taken out (this will look a bit ‘80s) part your fringe and smooth over with your dryer and brush in a flicking motion away from your face.

 

Published in Haircut

Panel Cutting:

With all of the trending glass bobs, getting sleek, straight hair can be a challenge. Panel cutting towards the ends of the hair is a great technique to remove bulk and collapse the ends of the hair to avoid a bell shape.  

How To:

Avoiding the part line and the front hairline, pick up a thin section of hair above the ear.  Holding the section at 90 degrees, cut about an inch of hair from the length.  Cutting at 90 degrees elevation will remove weight without leaving a line of demarcation.  You can repeat this process, moving up the head shape as desired. 

 

Published in Haircut

 

Customer service is such an important part of our industry. Eric Fisher was recently interviewed by Maggie Mulhern of Modern Salon Magazine while at the Premiere Orlando 2019 Show.  Check out his 10 best customer service tips for salon pros here.  Customer Service: How to Keep Your Client Happy, Modern Salon, June 4, 2019.

 

Published in Interview
Monday, 13 May 2019 00:00

Lived-In Hair: The Texture Trend

Photo by Modern Salon

What is 'Lived-in Hair?'

Lived-in hair is the hair equivalent of your favorite broken-in pair of jeans.  Customized just for you, suited to your lifestyle and hair type.  We have all mastered the beachy waves our clients want by using hot tools - but how do you create the perfect/imperfect cut which is the foundation of the look?  

Stylist to the stars, Anh Co Tran (@anhcotran), believes in dry cutting.  When cutting dry, you can see and feel texture and natural movement.  You can see exactly where the weight is as well as any cowlicks.  This allows for complete personalization and customization of a haircut.  

Tran believes that the blow dry is a critical part of dry cutting,  There must be some lift at the roots and the hair should not be flat to the head.  This lift will allow the hair to fall in a more natural position so the stylist can identify growth patterns, cowlicks and other areas that need to be addressed with the haircut.  

Texture 3

Photo by Ashley Nicole (@ashley_magnolia)

Layers are the starting point of this lived in look, the longer the layers are - the better.  Cutting layers before the line will reduce bulk, give you more control over the shape and prevent the layers from being too short. Wedge or pie shaped sections are used and as the length drops out of the section, layering begins and follows up to the round of the head.  Initial length is taken off and deep point cutting about 2" into the hair will add movement and texture.  Once the layering is complete, you can cut in the line.  

Textured Bob

Photo by Donovan Mills (@donovanmillshair)

Published in Haircut

Everyone does it....  Your doctor does it. Your dentist does it.  Retailers do it.  But as hairdressers we are always hesitant to raise our prices.  Most of us worry that our clients will go somewhere else.  Or that our clients will protest and complain and make the situation uncomfortable. 

So when SHOULD you raise your prices?  It is recommended that you consider a price increase when your books are solid for at least 2-3 months in advance.  When you have a waitlist its time to think about raising your prices (or moving up a level if your salon has multi-level pricing).  Your prices should go up if you're in demand!

Don't feel bad for charging more. Every year you receive more education and gain experience.  Other jobs have raises and promotions - are you any less deserving?   A good rule of thumb is to raise your prices between 5-10% each year to year and a half.  The exact amount should depend on your demographic. Be confident about your increase and let your clients know that you are worth it!  

Address the pricing issue with grace.  Keep your feelings out of it.  If you are so uncomfortable raising your prices - start with a price increase for new clients then slowly work that increase into your regular clientele.  Give your clients notice, "Today your haircut is $60.  Starting August 1, my haircut price will be $65." It is recommended that you notify your guests at least 6 weeks in advance.  The last thing you want to do is surprise them. 

Yes, a few clients may choose to leave you for a less expensive option; but the ones who stay will make up for that loss because they will be paying more.  You cannot assume a client doesn't have the money to pay for it.  People afford what they want to.  

The most important thing to remember when you are considering a price increase is that the treatment of your guest goes up with your pricing.  You must always create an incredible experience for your client.  

Published in Business
Monday, 15 April 2019 00:00

Interview with Pope the Barber: Balance!

Pope the Barber @popethebarber talks about how her hard work and dedication now allow her the freedom to balance her personal and professional life.

  

About Pope the Barber:

Hattori Hanzo artist Pope The Barber was born and raised in Los Angeles, California. She decided to become a barber shortly out of high school.  During high school she played basketball and learned to cut hair while traveling with the boys basketball team.  At this point she was self-taught and known as 'the white girl who could cut hair.'  Pope eventually received formal cosmetology training and made barbering her career. 

Fast forward 10 years later, her passion has led her to where she is now; an international barber and platform educator as well as barber shop owner of Vatican Barbershop in Santa Ana, California. The creative culture of LA and everywhere she has traveled internationally broadened her neotraditional skills and she applies all of the various techniques she's learned worldwide to her craft.

She is now one of the most well known female barbers in the world and hopes to spread her love and passion for the industry through continuously learning and educating.

 

 

Keep scrolling to watch the video!

Published in Interview
Tuesday, 19 December 2017 00:00

Happy Holidays from Prosper U

Balancing Beauty with Business

by Eric Fisher

Happy Holidays

Thank you,

Eric Fisher

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Published in Inspiration Blog
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